Its green. Its exotic. Its God's own country[1]. Its the land of the kettuvalam and Mohiniyattam. Of Kathakali and Kalaripayattu. Of two monsoons as if one wasn't enough. Its where you go for the backwaters and the houseboats. Its all color. Its like someone has set the color contrast bar on the television to the last bar. It also happens to be home. Thiruvananthapuram is the southernmost district of Kerala; a couple of hours South and you will be at the tip of the peninsula. Its the most polluted and the least pretty of all places in Kerala but that doesn't mean anything to a non-Keralite. There's enough here to keep you occupied for 48 hours, hell, there was enough to keep me occupied for 18 years but let's not go into that now.
Friday 5PM
Padmanabhaswamy Temple. The city gets its name from this temple - the city of Ananthan. The city where the 18-foot Vishnu reclines on Ananthan, the snake. This temple has a seven-tier Gopuram which one can climb up during daytime. The temple's corridor has more than 300 beautifully carved stone pillars, and going around the corridor a couple of times is enough exercise for the day. This temple, in my opinion, is also the cleanest temple I have ever seen in the country and for that reason alone, it is worth visiting.
Note: Non-Hindus are not permitted to enter the temple which is a pity. However, certain resourceful people have gotten in claiming to be members of some Hindu cult or the other. Just name a Swamiji and chant a mantra, and you should be okay. The other thing about this temple is that no trousers are allowed inside, but you can rent dhoti/mundu right outside.
Friday 8PM
If your stomach can take street/local food, stop by Paradise at Manacaud Jn and pick up a couple of "parottas" and mutton gravy. Awesome stuff. If you can't take it and you are in the mood to spend some money, take an auto to Muthoot Palace by the state secretariat.
Saturday 8AM
We are leaving town. A bit of a drive South on NH47 and a little way across the state border to the Padmanabhapuram palace. The seat of the princely state of Travancore during the 16th and 17th centuries, this palace is probably the best example of the Kerala style of architecture - teak, rosewood, granite and stone used lavishly to build the 127 room palace. Nalukettus and concert halls, dancing and dining halls, galleries which still house the original watercolors, and trapdoors that lead to escape tunnels. Simple, elegant, understated, a must-see. You will be transported to the age of Maharaja Marthanda Varma and his general Anathapadmanabhan. Guaranteed.
Saturday 12 noon
Couple of choices now - we can keep heading South to Kanyakumari, visiting some forts on the way and get to Vivenkananda Rock by sunset. Nice but hyped, a little overrated. And anyway, we are doing Thiruvananthapuram now. So I suggest driving back to the city to hit the beaches. Food, you ask? Some roadside cafe should work. Or if you can wait for a couple of hours, we can get food at Kovalam beach.
Saturday 3PM
Kovalam beach. Most resorts in Kovalam have their private beaches and the public ones are pretty crowded. But even with the crowds and the commercialisation, Kovalam still retains much of its charm - rocks, coconut trees and sand slopes which can get pretty steep once you get in the water. There are three beaches and the southernmost one is probably your best bet. Spend some time here at Kovalam and then we will head North through the bypass road to visit some local beaches and coastal neighborhoods. Right after the airport, you will start to see the shoreline; keep going North. The next few miles you will see numerous churches by the sea and communities around them - men playing cards under the fishing are a common sight. Stop wherever you think the beaches look inviting and take your time. If you are lucky, you will encounter men climbing down coconut trees dragging down fresh toddy which they will happily share with you if you just ask them nicely. Drive upto the Veli kaayal where you will see the backwaters separated from the sea by a small stretch of land, and then turn back.
Saturday 8PM
Dinner at Ariya Nivaas. It is arguably the best vegetarian restaurant in the city and you absolutely have to try one of their special dosais - Malli dosai, Kallu uthappam or tomato onion uthappam. They usually have atleast four different types of chutneys, all of which taste heavenly. Vegetable kebabs are quite decent and worth a try. Disclaimer: I know the people who own this place but then in this city, I know someone in every establishment, so that doesn't really count.
Sunday 9AM
The Napier Museum is one of the oldest museums in the county, and has an eclectic collection of wood and ivory carvings and rare coins from the Chera, Chola and Pandya dynasties. The most interesting exhibit though is the building itself - built in 1880, with a gothic style roof and minarets it is very much an architectural landmark here in Thiruvananthapuram. Right next door is the Sree Chitra Art Gallery which houses the famous oil paintings of Raja Ravi Varma. There are also paintings from other famous painters across the country especially some from the Bengal and Tanjore schools which are worth seeing.
Sunday 12noon
Lunch at Highland. You didn't really think we were going to leave the city without having fish, did you? Highland's Kerala meals along with umpteen varieties of fish curry(prawns, searfish and kingfish are common) is a local favorite and should absolutely be tried. If you don't feel like rice, try kappa(tapioca) and karimeen(pearl spot), which along with Kallu(toddy) is the state's staple 3K diet.
Sunday 2PM
Check out the state run SMSM Institute for souvenirs and Kerala handicrafts. Excellent quality and is usually much cheaper than the fancy, private stores. Wooden elephants, boats and Kathakali faces are the most common trinkets, and serious shoppers go for the sandalwood figurines and lifesize watercolors. Spend the rest of your afternoon strolling around the area - from Statue to Palayam you will see some marvellous colonial buildings like the Secretariat, VJT Hall, Public Library and some colleges of Kerala University.
Getting There
Indian, Air Deccan and Jet Airways have flights in from Mumbai, Bangalore and Chennai. You can also fly into Kochi and drive down here. It takes about 5 hours and is a beautiful drive.
If you are flying in from the Middle East, you will have no issues getting here.
Accommodations
Quite a few decent, economy choices inside the city. If you have some money to spend though, there are beach resorts are all over the coast. For the backpackers, a very decent Youth Hostel in Veli, right next to the Veli backwaters and the Arabian Sea is worth it. If you have to stay somewhere local and "authentic", that can be arranged. For the right price, a nice couple with a spacious home in the heart of the city can be conned to spare you their daughter's vacant room. Please to email me for details.
[1]Everywhere else belongs to the in-laws.
PS: No, sorry, no resorts and ayurveda spas in this itinerary. This is strictly an in and around the city thing. When someone pays me to go visit all these resorts around I promise to do a post on them.
Friday 5PM
Padmanabhaswamy Temple. The city gets its name from this temple - the city of Ananthan. The city where the 18-foot Vishnu reclines on Ananthan, the snake. This temple has a seven-tier Gopuram which one can climb up during daytime. The temple's corridor has more than 300 beautifully carved stone pillars, and going around the corridor a couple of times is enough exercise for the day. This temple, in my opinion, is also the cleanest temple I have ever seen in the country and for that reason alone, it is worth visiting.
Note: Non-Hindus are not permitted to enter the temple which is a pity. However, certain resourceful people have gotten in claiming to be members of some Hindu cult or the other. Just name a Swamiji and chant a mantra, and you should be okay. The other thing about this temple is that no trousers are allowed inside, but you can rent dhoti/mundu right outside.
Friday 8PM
If your stomach can take street/local food, stop by Paradise at Manacaud Jn and pick up a couple of "parottas" and mutton gravy. Awesome stuff. If you can't take it and you are in the mood to spend some money, take an auto to Muthoot Palace by the state secretariat.
Saturday 8AM
We are leaving town. A bit of a drive South on NH47 and a little way across the state border to the Padmanabhapuram palace. The seat of the princely state of Travancore during the 16th and 17th centuries, this palace is probably the best example of the Kerala style of architecture - teak, rosewood, granite and stone used lavishly to build the 127 room palace. Nalukettus and concert halls, dancing and dining halls, galleries which still house the original watercolors, and trapdoors that lead to escape tunnels. Simple, elegant, understated, a must-see. You will be transported to the age of Maharaja Marthanda Varma and his general Anathapadmanabhan. Guaranteed.
Saturday 12 noon
Couple of choices now - we can keep heading South to Kanyakumari, visiting some forts on the way and get to Vivenkananda Rock by sunset. Nice but hyped, a little overrated. And anyway, we are doing Thiruvananthapuram now. So I suggest driving back to the city to hit the beaches. Food, you ask? Some roadside cafe should work. Or if you can wait for a couple of hours, we can get food at Kovalam beach.
Saturday 3PM
Kovalam beach. Most resorts in Kovalam have their private beaches and the public ones are pretty crowded. But even with the crowds and the commercialisation, Kovalam still retains much of its charm - rocks, coconut trees and sand slopes which can get pretty steep once you get in the water. There are three beaches and the southernmost one is probably your best bet. Spend some time here at Kovalam and then we will head North through the bypass road to visit some local beaches and coastal neighborhoods. Right after the airport, you will start to see the shoreline; keep going North. The next few miles you will see numerous churches by the sea and communities around them - men playing cards under the fishing are a common sight. Stop wherever you think the beaches look inviting and take your time. If you are lucky, you will encounter men climbing down coconut trees dragging down fresh toddy which they will happily share with you if you just ask them nicely. Drive upto the Veli kaayal where you will see the backwaters separated from the sea by a small stretch of land, and then turn back.
Saturday 8PM
Dinner at Ariya Nivaas. It is arguably the best vegetarian restaurant in the city and you absolutely have to try one of their special dosais - Malli dosai, Kallu uthappam or tomato onion uthappam. They usually have atleast four different types of chutneys, all of which taste heavenly. Vegetable kebabs are quite decent and worth a try. Disclaimer: I know the people who own this place but then in this city, I know someone in every establishment, so that doesn't really count.
Sunday 9AM
The Napier Museum is one of the oldest museums in the county, and has an eclectic collection of wood and ivory carvings and rare coins from the Chera, Chola and Pandya dynasties. The most interesting exhibit though is the building itself - built in 1880, with a gothic style roof and minarets it is very much an architectural landmark here in Thiruvananthapuram. Right next door is the Sree Chitra Art Gallery which houses the famous oil paintings of Raja Ravi Varma. There are also paintings from other famous painters across the country especially some from the Bengal and Tanjore schools which are worth seeing.
Sunday 12noon
Lunch at Highland. You didn't really think we were going to leave the city without having fish, did you? Highland's Kerala meals along with umpteen varieties of fish curry(prawns, searfish and kingfish are common) is a local favorite and should absolutely be tried. If you don't feel like rice, try kappa(tapioca) and karimeen(pearl spot), which along with Kallu(toddy) is the state's staple 3K diet.
Sunday 2PM
Check out the state run SMSM Institute for souvenirs and Kerala handicrafts. Excellent quality and is usually much cheaper than the fancy, private stores. Wooden elephants, boats and Kathakali faces are the most common trinkets, and serious shoppers go for the sandalwood figurines and lifesize watercolors. Spend the rest of your afternoon strolling around the area - from Statue to Palayam you will see some marvellous colonial buildings like the Secretariat, VJT Hall, Public Library and some colleges of Kerala University.
Getting There
Indian, Air Deccan and Jet Airways have flights in from Mumbai, Bangalore and Chennai. You can also fly into Kochi and drive down here. It takes about 5 hours and is a beautiful drive.
If you are flying in from the Middle East, you will have no issues getting here.
Accommodations
Quite a few decent, economy choices inside the city. If you have some money to spend though, there are beach resorts are all over the coast. For the backpackers, a very decent Youth Hostel in Veli, right next to the Veli backwaters and the Arabian Sea is worth it. If you have to stay somewhere local and "authentic", that can be arranged. For the right price, a nice couple with a spacious home in the heart of the city can be conned to spare you their daughter's vacant room. Please to email me for details.
[1]Everywhere else belongs to the in-laws.
PS: No, sorry, no resorts and ayurveda spas in this itinerary. This is strictly an in and around the city thing. When someone pays me to go visit all these resorts around I promise to do a post on them.
1 comment:
Thanks Veena for your very educational post about Thiruvananthapuram. Last time, I visited that city was in 1970. I hope to visit there again soon.
aamiahindu@yahoo.com
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